sew over it

Comfy Chic

Swoon scarf neck cardigan, Style Arc Sadie Pants

These are three of my favorite pieces that I’ve made recently! They may be “boring basics”, but I love them and wear them constantly.

First, the pants. These are the Sadie Pant by Style Arc, a pull-on pant with a flat front and a tapered leg with a hem split. I’d never made or worn this style of pant before, but I was looking for an alternative to my usual jeans, and I’d heard that Style Arc had a good pants block.

And it turns out they do! These pants fit me really well with no alterations. I was afraid the elastic-waist style would mean that they were baggy, but they’re actually quite slim-fitting. My measurements put me squarely in the size 6 and I have to do a little wiggle to get them over my hips, so keep that in mind if you’re grading between sizes!

I should also note that the length was perfect on me and I’m 5’4″, so taller ladies may want to lengthen them.

Style Arc Sadie Pants

Style Arc Sadie Pants

As with all Style Arc patterns, the instructions are very minimal. I had a little trouble understanding how the pockets are supposed to be formed, but I think I figured it out in the end.

Somehow I missed that the phrase “the elastic is a feature” in the description meant that while the front is flat, the elastic is supposed to be exposed around the sides and back. That wasn’t the look I was going for, so I had to do a bit of finagling to create a fabric cover for the elastic and sew it in place. In hindsight, I should have just lengthened the leg pieces at the top and folded them over to create the waistband.

The fabric is an absolutely heavenly tencel twill from Blackbird Fabrics. If it wasn’t so spendy I’d make all my clothes out of this stuff! It’s the perfect weight and drape for these pants and I love the feel of it.

So construction niggles aside, these pants are definitely a win! They’re super comfortable, but they still look nice enough to wear to work or pretty much any other occasion.

Style Arc Sadie Pants

Style Arc Sadie Pants

Swoon scarf neck cardigan

Next is the Swoon Scarf Neck Cardigan. This is a free pattern that I downloaded years ago but have just now gotten around to making up. I really like the design and it was easy to put together – what took the longest was definitely hemming all those edges.

I used a ribbed sweater knit from Blackbird Fabrics (sold out), and it’s perfectly cozy – just what a cardigan should be!

Swoon scarf neck cardigan

Swoon scarf neck cardigan

Swoon scarf neck cardigan

Swoon scarf neck cardigan, Style Arc Sadie Pants

And last but not least is the Sew Over It Silk Cami. I’ve been needing a woven tank/camisole pattern for a while, but I could never decide which one to get. Joining the SOI PDF Club and getting to choose a pattern is what finally convinced me to try this one out.

I almost always have to make upper body fitting adjustments, so I made a muslin first. I ended up shortening it by 1/2″ above the bust and used a 3/4″ seam allowance when joining the straps. I also took 3″ off the bottom at the center front and back, blending to 1 3/4″ at the side seams (so the hem curve isn’t as pronounced). So basically a lot of shortening all over!

The fabric I used is a really nice mid-weight rayon crepe from The Fabric Store – it feels very high-end.

The only other issue I had is that the facing pieces are a bit larger than the cami pieces. Maybe I’m missing something, or I made a mistake cutting the pattern out? I’ve already make a second version of this cami where I trimmed down the facing pieces to match, and they definitely lay inside nicer.

I like that the instructions give you a really nice finish with an all-in-one facing and French seams. I also like that there aren’t any darts so it’s quicker to sew. I’m really happy with the fit now, and I’ll definitely be making more of these!

Hope you’re having a lovely spring!

<3 Lindsay

Liberty Doris Dress

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

This is definitely the most feminine thing I’ve ever sewn. Something about the design of Sew Over It’s Doris Dress struck a chord with me the instant I saw it and I decided I needed to make one. The vintage-inspired style is a new one for me, but it was really fun to try out. Sometimes I like to sew outside my comfort zone as much for the new sewing experience as for the finished garment I end up with.

I made this dress back in May, so, as is the danger of blogging so far removed from sewing, the details of making this dress are a little fuzzy.

I sewed the smallest size – a size 8 – even though the measurements were 1.5″ too big in the bust. I made a muslin of the bodice, thinking it would be too big, but I actually didn’t end up making any changes. Because the bodice is meant to be loose fitting and the waist can be cinched in with the tie this is a pretty easy pattern to fit. The only alteration I made was to cut the length about halfway in-between the above knee and below knee options. I ended up shortening it by a few inches when I hemmed it though, so I think it ended up pretty close to the original above knee length – maybe an inch or two longer.

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

I used Liberty tana lawn in the classic Hesketh print, featuring snowdrops. This design was originally produced in the 1890s, and I love the art nouveau vibe it has. I bought the fabric on eBay from katsfabrics. She sells ‘seconds’ for much cheaper than the retail price, and I couldn’t find any defects in the fabric I bought.

This dress had a lot of fun, new-to-me features: bust pleats, a side zipper, a buttoned front integrated with facings, and a skirt made from seven flared panels. The skirt does use up quite a bit of fabric (especially if you have a directional print), but it’s a really nice shape.

This was my first time sewing with a Sew Over It pattern and I was impressed with the quality of the instructions: they’re very detailed and easy to follow.

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

Liberty Snowdrop Doris Dress

This was originally meant to be my birthday dress, but I was sick on the days leading up to my birthday (so I didn’t finish it) and on my birthday itself (so I didn’t go out anywhere fancy anyway). My birthday wasn’t a total bust though, because I did manage to go to the cat cafe, play pub trivia, and eat a deep dish pizza, so that’s a win in my book!

Instead I ended up wearing this dress to Nathaniel’s grad school graduation a couple weeks later. He got his Masters in Statistics en route to a PhD in Educational Psychology – I’m very proud of him!

Liberty Doris Dress

I don’t think vintage-inspired will be my usual thing, but it was definitely a fun style to try, and I love the way the dress turned out. Do you have a favorite Sew Over It pattern? After my success with this one I’d love to give another one a try!

<3 Lindsay