closet case patterns

La Sylphide Blouse

La Sylphide Blouse - Papercut Patterns

I’ve had the La Sylphide pattern from Papercut Patterns in my stash for a few years now, but I could never decide on the right fabric for it, or on which version I wanted to make (dress, blouse, or skirt). I finally decided that I’d get the most use out of a blouse, and when I saw this gorgeous floral at Blackbird Fabrics I knew it was the perfect match.

I don’t feel like my usual style is super feminine, but every once in a while I like to go all out. Even though this blouse is pink and has a big bow and a peplum, it still feels very “me” somehow and I love wearing it.

La Sylphide Blouse - Papercut Patterns

La Sylphide Blouse - Papercut Patterns

La Sylphide Blouse - Papercut Patterns

I didn’t make any alterations and I feel like the fit is pretty great. Sewing the tie neck was a little fiddly, but other than that everything came together smoothly.

I’m also wearing a pair of Ginger Jeans that I made this spring out of stretch twill. I like them, but I’m not totally convinced colored jeans are for me. These particular pants are also a cat hair magnet, so that puts them firmly in the “just okay” category in my book. Ginger’s still one of my favorite patterns though, and I have some Cone Mills denim earmarked for another pair next fall.

La Sylphide Blouse - Papercut Patterns

La Sylphide Blouse - Papercut Patterns

La Sylphide Blouse - Papercut Patterns

This blouse is a new style for me, so I’m really happy it turned out so well! I’ve already worn it on lots of different occasions.

I hope you’re having a great summer, and thanks for reading!

<3 Lindsay

Silk Gingham Skirt

Silk Gingham Skirt

Ever since I saw this Madewell skirt I’ve been planning on making my own version. So when  I was contacted a while back by My Fabric Designs to try out their fabric printing service I realized it would be the perfect opportunity to create the exact fabric I was after.

I recommend ordering the swatch book first – it’s a lot better than just guessing what the fabric will feel like, and it’s kind of a fun reference on its own! I made a simple gingham repeat in Illustrator at the scale I wanted (.6″ squares) and uploaded it to the website where I could see how it looked as a full repeat on the fabric. I chose the silk crepe de chine for this skirt and I’m really pleased with the quality. I was worried the fabric would be a bit see-through in the sun, but happily it’s not at all. I was also glad to see how dark the black ink is – sometimes the black on printed fabric looks kind of washed out and gray, but it seems that the silk takes the dye really well.

madewell gingham skirtThis was the inspiration – a flowy, gingham skirt – but I didn’t copy most of the particulars. I considered a few different patterns, but eventually I decided that I just wanted a simple gathered skirt. It’s “self-drafted” in that it’s two rectangles – one for the skirt and one for the waistband. I used approximately three times the width of my waist in fabric for fairly full gathers. Even though it’s a simple design I took my time with this make and made sure to finish everything neatly: french seams, invisible zipper, waistband finished by hand, etc. It turned out exactly as I imagined, and it’s so lovely and floaty to wear!

Silk Gingham Skirt

Silk Gingham Skirt

Silk Gingham Skirt

Silk Gingham Skirt

To go with the skirt I made a sleeveless black Nettie bodysuit. I’d forgotten how much I like this pattern – it really is perfect to wear with skirts! I thought I might have to alter the shape of the armhole when I made it sleeveless, but I actually liked it just how it was. To finish the armholes I made bindings the same width as the neckline binding (1.5″) but attached them with a 3/8″ seam allowance rather than a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Silk Gingham Skirt

Silk Gingham Skirt

I’m really happy with My Fabric Design‘s service and how my fabric turned out. It seems like they’re in direct competition with Spoonflower, but since I’ve never printed fabric there I can’t really compare the two. Their pricing seems comparable, though they each have a few unique substrates not carried by the other. It’s always good to have options, so I’m glad there are more companies like this popping up!

If you’re interested in trying it out for yourself, they currently have a coupon running for 25% off with the code “photo25” through April 30th.

<3 Lindsay

The fabric for my skirt was provided by My Fabric Designs. All thoughts and opinions remain my own.

Cate’s Cousin Top & Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans + Cate's Cousin Top

An old pattern and a new pattern!

My shirt is the Cate’s Cousin top from Style Arc. This is my second time using a Style Arc pattern – I bought a few of their knit top patterns during a sale a while ago, and last month I made the Alexi turtleneck. I haven’t blogged it yet, but I do like the pattern. I made it from a maroon merino jersey I bought at The Fabric Store in LA, which is also where this fabric is from. This one’s mostly rayon (nice and drapey), but it has a bit of wool in it too.

I was always kind of put off by Style Arc’s website, but they now have an Etsy store with all their digital patterns that’s easier to navigate. I think the main drawback is that their designs aren’t modeled so it can be hard to picture how they’ll actually look, and reviews by bloggers are few and far between. Their instructions are pretty minimal but seemed sufficient for non-beginners. Granted, I made some pretty simple tops, so I’m not sure what their instructions would be like for something more complicated. One strange feature is that when you buy the pattern you only get 3 sizes (4-6-8 or 10-12-14 for example) and each size is in a separate PDF file – not very handy if you need to grade between sizes. I also found it odd that the symmetrical front and back pieces of both shirts were full size rather than having a “cut on fold” line down the middle. I didn’t particularly mind, but it would have saved paper to just print the half size pieces.

This shirt came together easily and the fit seems true to size. I’ve never made a cowl before, so it was fun to see how that’s constructed. It’s definitely a comfortable and wearable shirt, but I’m not totally sold on the style. I’m not sure if either dropped shoulders or cowl necks are the best looks for me. I love the fabric though, so I’m sure I’ll be wearing it anyway!

Ginger Jeans + Cate's Cousin Top

Ginger Jeans + Cate's Cousin Top

Ginger Jeans + Cate's Cousin Top

This is my second pair of Ginger Jeans. View B this time with the high waist and skinny legs. When I basted them together the legs were a bit *too* skinny through the calves, so I used a 3/8″ (rather than 5/8″) seam allowance from the knee down. I used Cone Mills denim from Threadbare Fabrics which seems to be great so far – I’ll have to see how well it ages before I can reach a final verdict. Thanks to my Pfaff (I bought a used Ambition 1.0 a few months ago!) I think this is my best fly insertion and topstitching yet! My Pfaff also came with a “hump jumper” and I love that little gadget – it works like a charm when going over multiple layers of denim.

The fit is pretty good on these. I think there’s just a smidge too much fabric at the inner thigh (or somewhere in the crotch region). There also seem to be a lot of knee wrinkles, but I’m not sure if that can be corrected or if that’s just the way it is with skinny jeans. Any thoughts?

I’m glad I tried out the high rise, but I think a mid-rise is still my favorite height for jeans. On my next pair I’ll use Heather’s tutorial to make something in between Views A and B.

Ginger Jeans + Cate's Cousin Top

Ginger Jeans + Cate's Cousin Top

Ginger Jeans + Cate's Cousin Top

With the weather warming up I definitely feel like my sew-jo’s returning. I plan on doing a quick Wardrobe Architect run-though and getting my thoughts (and fabrics) in order. Lots of sewing ahead!

<3 Lindsay