Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

This winter I had the opportunity to test a design from the new Named collection, and I chose the Ansa Dress, a modern and feminine cocktail dress!

I think the style lines for this pattern are so interesting! The raglan butterfly sleeves, the waist pleats, and the curved bust panel are all really fun elements that I’d never sewn before. It’s an untraditional take on a cocktail dress and I love that about it. The waist pleats are my favorite element – they provide the perfect amount of shaping and visual interest. And the lack of a waist seam means this dress is seriously comfortable!

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

As usual with Named patterns, everything came together really smoothly. I had a few suggestions for the instructions and they were all incorporated in the final pattern – it’s nice to see that Named really cares about the feedback process! The only pattern alteration I made was to shorten the dress by 2″. I probably should have shortened the bodice above the bust as well, as there’s some extra fabric there. I’ve come to realize lately that I often need that adjustment, but I haven’t gotten in the habit of doing it yet.

The fabric is a stretch silk satin that I picked up at Les Coupons de Saint Pierre a couple years ago. It was a three meter cut, so I still have enough left over to make a blouse – I’m thinking another Melilot! It’s really nice to wear and wasn’t too difficult to sew. It does show creases and puckers pretty badly though, which is especially evident around the zipper at the back. Ah well, I’m not too worried by it!

One thing I am really pleased about is how neat my neckline binding turned out. That’s a skill I’ve definitely improved on lately!

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

Ansa Butterfly Sleeve Dress - Named Patterns

Have you added any of the new Named patterns to your queue? I have the Reeta midi shirt dress on my list, and I also love the look of the Ronja dungarees!

<3 Lindsay

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Even though I’ve made quite a few Seamwork patterns and the Cooper backpack twice, this is the first time I’ve actually sewn with a Colette apparel pattern! I made this Selene skirt all the way back in July, so the construction details are a little bit fuzzy, but I do remember that the instructions were great and I don’t think I encountered any difficulties.

The skirt is made from some lovely raw silk that my grandma gave me. I decided to use some of it for this project, but I knew it would be a bit too lightweight for a structured skirt like this, so I underlined it with Kona cotton. Underlining really made a huge difference – it made the silk feel much more substantial, and it also keeps it from wrinkling too badly!  For the lining I used bemberg rayon.

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

This is definitely one of the best garments I’ve made in terms of finishing. Lining, underlining, lapped zipper, vent, hand-sewn hem… these all make the skirt feel very high-quality. This was my first time doing a lapped zipper, and I think it turned out pretty well! I like that Colette includes vintage-inspired techniques like that. The notched pockets are my favorite feature!

White’s hard to photograph, so unfortunately the construction details don’t show up too well! I lowered the highlights, so hopefully you can make them out okay.

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

The turtleneck I made toward the end of last winter. The fabric is a lightweight merino wool from The Fabric Store. I used Style Arc’s Alexi pattern and the fit is pretty good, although it’s a bit too big through the shoulders and bust. I also shortened the sleeves and the body by an inch or two.

I actually just made another Alexi turtleneck last weekend from Kaufman Laguna jersey, and the fit is much better and tighter, so I guess it just depends on your stretch percentage. The pattern says it’s “suitable for any stretch knit fabric”, so not a lot of guidance there. It is a great basic though!

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

Selene Skirt & Alexi Turtleneck

I have about two yards of the raw silk left, so if you have any pattern suggestions that it would work well for I’d love to hear them! I think I’ll try dyeing it a darker color for whatever I use it for next.

<3 Lindsay

In the Folds – Ruffle Peplum Tank

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Hello again! As expected, grad school’s been taking up most of my time lately, so my poor blog’s been a little neglected. I’ve still been sewing though, and I have a small backlog of projects waiting to be blogged, hopefully over winter break!

I made (and photographed) this tank back in September. It’s a free pattern by Australian designer In the Folds, downloadable at the Peppermint Magazine sewing school site. As soon as I saw it on Instagram I was really into it, even though I’m usually not a ruffle person. I think the shape and proportions of this pattern are really cute and modern.

I whipped one up in a lightweight cotton from my stash, and I’m really pleased with how it turned out. It’s a fun piece to wear!

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Even though it’s a free pattern, the instructions are excellent. It was really a joy to sew – all the pieces fit together so perfectly. I was especially impressed by how well the V-neck bias binding turned out.

You can’t see it too well on mine, but there are shoulder panel pieces that would be great for color-blocking. Maybe on my next version!

The only thing I would change next time is to add just a bit more length. I feel like it’s a little too short to wear with my mid-rise jeans. I’m wearing it here with my high-waisted Gingers.

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

Ruffle Tank - In the Folds

I’ve been eager to try another In the Folds pattern, and ever since the Acton Dress was released recently I’ve had my eye on it! I imagine the wrap skirt version would be fantastic for holiday parties, and I think I have the perfect stash fabric to go with it…

Thanks for reading!

<3 Lindsay

Fall Style // Melilot and Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall is here, and I couldn’t be more excited to wear cozy sweaters and drink hot tea again! This year I got a jump on my fall sewing when Michelle asked me to be a part of the Style Maker Fabrics fall blog tour.

The Melilot Shirt recently rose to the top of my queue when I realized how perfectly versatile it would be for school and work situations. I chose this teal rayon twill to make it up in and I’m super happy with that decision. It’s a color I love (but for some reason wasn’t in my wardrobe) and this rayon is super soft and has a lovely drape. It’s mid-weight, so not sheer at all, and it’s perfect for this type of blouse.

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

The only alterations I made to the pattern were to shorten it by 2″ in the front and 3″ in the back, and to space out the buttons more so I only used six. My measurements are between 34 and 36, and for this pattern I decided to size down since it’s fairly loose-fitting. I’m really happy with the fit. It’s relaxed and comfortable, but it still has a nice shape. I love how the instructions are written to give every part of the shirt a clean finish, even the insides of the pockets. I’m also a fan of the deceptively tricky-looking concealed button placket, which I’d never done before. All the little details of this pattern really add up to a very luxe-feeling garment.

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

The Driftless Cardigan also shot up the queue recently, mainly because the AC at my new job is freezing and cardigans are an absolute necessity! I ordered this lovely squishy sweater knit from Style Maker Fabric’s fabulous selection. When it arrived I decided I liked the wrong side of the fabric just as much as the right side, and I was torn about which one to use. They both had great textures, but I finally decided on using the wrong side of the fabric because the stripes were a little bit more muted, which I felt fit with my style better. You can’t go wrong either way though!

As with all Grainline patterns, Driftless had great instructions and was a breeze to sew up. My favorite feature is the pockets – they really up the cozy factor!

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

Fall Fashion Melilot & Driftless

I’m really happy with both of these makes – I think the patterns and fabrics were perfect for each other! I’m planning on sewing up another Melilot this fall with a linen/silk blend from Miss Matatabi, and another Driftless with some mustard merino I got at The Fabric Store last December.

If you’d like to follow along with the rest of the tour, you can check out the line-up here. I’ve already gotten some major fall style inspiration from the other bloggers! Abbey of Sew Charleston will be up next tomorrow!

<3 Lindsay

*Disclaimer: The fabrics in this post were provided by Style Maker Fabrics. All opinions remain my own.*

Hummingbird Kimono

Hummingbird Kimono

Remember when kimono cardigans were all the rage a couple summers ago? Well, I’m definitely late to the party here, but at least I’ve arrived!

I drafted my own pattern using a combination of the popular Elle Apparel tutorial (although the link’s now broken and I can’t find it on her website?) and this video tutorial. I based my measurements on the former and used the sewing method of the latter because she includes an angled front and facings.

Hummingbird Kimono

Hummingbird Kimono

Hummingbird Kimono

When I saw this hummingbird print viscose pop up at Blackbird Fabrics, I just had to have it! It’s super soft and drapey, and fabulous to wear. Blackbird is definitely my go-to for fantastic rayon prints (see here and here).

Hummingbird Kimono

Hummingbird Kimono

Hummingbird Kimono

I don’t have much else to add! It was a fairly quick and satisfying project. It’s both comfortable and fun to wear, so it’s a win in my book!

<3 Lindsay